A lot of different ideas were going through our heads when photographer CHRISTOPHER KERN and I decided to begin working on our big spring ’13 collections story. Christopher wanted an exciting outdoor location and I wanted a story that would exhilarate me and my love for fashion. Such aspirations turned out to be a bit complicated. We changed locations about four times and models about three times. In addition, we wanted to highlight the edge in the current spring ’13 collections without turning into a formulaic approach. Although we love Punk and it’s just around the corner from yet another revival with the upcoming PUNK: Chaos to Couture, exhibit at The Met in New York this May — the current collections are highlighting several different eras and not just punk. Yes, there are tons of spikes on shoes, jackets and every other imaginable piece of clothing out there but it seems that Punk has become a classic fashion staple over the last 15 years. It has been styled to the nth degree with mixed results. In recent past collections it has looked fantastic in the hands of someone like Christopher Bailey at BURBERRY yet it can sometimes prove exhausting or uncomfortable to wear at the hands of lesser designers.
What’s more, a Punk attitude betrays the current zeitgeist. No one thinks that Anarchy is a good idea anymore, that just seems an outdated point of view. When looking at the spring ’13 collections, it dawned on me that designers found their inspiration within several different times in history, cultures, art and movements. It feels more modern to blend disparate styles and sensibilities than to subscribe to any one particular style so that’s exactly what we did. This of course, is very exciting news in fashion! Just one look at MARC JACOBS fabulous spring ’13 collection tells the whole story. Although the collection was obviously rooted in the 1960s, his black and white sequined dresses couldn’t look more modern or easier to wear. Of course, Jacobs has become a master at updating styles but it’s his skilled reinterpretation of a look that makes girls from their late teens to women in their late seventies find him equally appealing and cool.
On another front, GIVENCHY‘S Riccardo Tisci has made religious references his calling card, yet his collections do not alienate his clientele but prove intriguing and desirable instead. Meanwhile at CÉLINE, Phoebe Philo has become such a high authority on the new minimalism that men as well as women are lining up to buy her collections. I find her work a bit new wave and therefore a bit retro yet she adds modern touches that make you want to run out and buy her pieces even when you know you’ve already rocked that look twenty years ago. That’s quite an achievement for a designer who so effortlessly turns out one successful collection after another. Back in New York, we have been watching BIBHU MOHAPATRA since his first collection back in 2009 and have become huge fans of his. His combination of chic day wear, glamorous evening wear and furs has proved so riveting to us that his work has already been featured on one of our past covers and we are very happy to be bringing him to San Francisco this upcoming May 23rd for an exclusive “Fashion and Philanthropy” fundraiser in collaboration with San Francisco philanthropist MARILYN CABAK and benefitting CONARD HOUSE at the historic Fairmont Hotel — The event will be limited to 150 guests so please — save the date! We will tell you all about that later but for now, we urge to go out and shop the spring ’13 collections mixing references and periods. When you see the modern results, you’ll be glad you did.
Victor Vargas, Editor in Chief